Timberline Mountain Guide's Blog

Ouray Ice Climbing!

2012-01-15T13:17:00.001-08:00

I just returned from a fantastic week of ice climbing in Ouray. Some people would argue that Ouray is a mecca for the ice experience. The typically quick approaches and reliable conditions each season make the place a destination for the sport. One of the coolest things that I have ever seen is the Ouray Ice Park. Here, and old irrigation water pipe has been modified with modern plumbing to

Acker Rock- Adventure Climbing in Southern Oregon

2011-09-19T09:51:00.001-07:00

This week Iain and I headed south from Bend to explore Acker Rock. For years both of us had heard of this spot, and we finally arranged a day to go. Acker is placed squarely between Highway 138 and 62, west of Crater Lake National Park. Geologically speaking it is composed of Quartz Latite, but for climbers like us, it just meant that it climbed like well featured granite. Looking towards

Trip Report- Zermatt/ Saas Fee Area Climbing, August, 2011

2011-08-25T17:30:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of spending a week climbing with Jane and Dan in Switzerland along with John Race from the Northwest Mountain School as another guide. After a great year of climbing and preparing, we were ready to go experience some of the classic climbing that Europe has to offer. We did the trip as a 1:1 climber to guide ratio to give us great flexibility in some of the

Mount Shuksan- Mountain Profile - Jewell of the North Cascades National Park

2011-08-12T12:37:00.000-07:00

At 9131ft, Mount Shuksan is the fifth highest non-volcanic peak in the state of Washington. It is one my favorite climbs in the North Cascades National Park because it possesses great qualities like commanding position, as well as combining all the essential elements of classic alpine climbing: glacier travel and rock climbing. Even though you might not recognize the peak at first, chances are

Sky Ridge- A Route Profile of a Classic

2011-07-01T12:48:00.000-07:00

Sky Ridge- A Smith Rock Classic People often ask us what are favorite routes are. For me, there are several qualities that make a route special to climb. First and foremost, it has to have good position. Second, the climbing has to be fun. And third, a minimum of hanging belays! Sky Ridge meets all of the above requirements, but it really appeals to folks who want a great, exposed position.

News From the Hood!

2011-06-17T11:08:00.000-07:00

We've been having a great season here up on Mount Hood. Despite some days with an ominous forecast we've still had tons of successful climbs with sweeping views from Mount Rainier to the North and the Three Sisters to the South. We're still enjoying the record snowfall year we had in the Oregon Cascades with tremendous summer ski mountaineering. For some reason it's really hard to get tired of

Broken Top- A Central Oregon Classic

2011-05-17T15:10:00.000-07:00

Last week I had the great opportunity to the climb the iconic Broken Top. Sitting south of the Three Sisters Wilderness, Broken Top is a fantastic peak for alpine climbers and ski mountaineers. I had been talking with Jane and Dan about this peak for a year! We also had been watching the weather and finally our scheduled aligned with the weather and we had bluebird day! Below, Jane heading

Too Many Choices, Not Enough Time!

2011-04-28T14:48:00.000-07:00

Spring in our neck of the woods brings plenty of options for ways to enjoy the mountains and rock of Oregon. During this time of year it's not uncommon for us to be switching between activities each day of the week- one day you'll find us shouldering our rock packs and heading for the sun and warm temps of Smith Rock State . The next day we may be seen skinning up a local mountain for a ski

Sun and Bolts at Smith Rock State Park

2011-02-04T11:10:00.000-08:00

We've been having a great winter rock season this year here at Smith Rock. Many people visit the Central Oregon area in the summer when temps at Smith can soar into the upper 80's and 90's. For the rock enthusiast, mid-winter can be a great time to climb at Smith Rock State Park on clear days. In fact, most of the locals prefer to climb in the winter at the park. Down in the canyon,

White River Glacier- A classic Oregon Ski Descent

2011-01-13T15:51:00.000-08:00

Last Monday, I was in the right place at the right time. This sort of thing doesn't happen to me much of the time but it did on Monday. The White River Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in the Lower 48. For skiing, the access is phenomenal and for a 4600 foot climb up from Timberline Lodge, it is possible to get a 6700 foot descent all the way to White River Snowpark. When we arrived

Central Oregon Backcountry Skiing- Early Season Conditions Update

2010-12-08T13:52:00.000-08:00

We have had bountiful early season in the Central Oregon cascades. The snow has come early and has been fairly plentiful in the past month. Most of our regular haunts are ready to go. The season began for me on November 15th. Carlos, Iain and I were hoping to get on Ball Butte, but its high, windswept nature exposed quite a bit of rock. We opted for a slighter lower Moon

International AMGA/IFMGA Annual Meeting, Boulder, Colorado

2010-11-19T13:20:00.000-08:00

From November 12-16, I had the opportunity to attend the annual AMGA (American Mountain Guide Association) annual meeting in Boulder, Colorado. This gathering was also the annual meeting for the IFMGA (International Federation Mountain Guide Association) and it was the first time this international meeting was held on North American soil. There were delegates from over 20

Alpine Rock Climbing at Washington Pass

2010-09-20T14:10:00.000-07:00

Last week I had the good fortune of climbing with Jennifer and Heather at Washington Pass, in the eastern portion of the North Cascades. This area is known for granite climbing fairly close to the road. Due to its east side location, the area frequently gets better weather than the west side of the range. On this trip, the weather stayed just dry enough for us to squeak in two classic climbs of

Pioneer Route- Monkey Face

2010-09-03T13:32:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I climbed the Pioneer Route on the Monkey Face with Grant, Steve and Danny. We had a great day out in the park with cool, autumn temperatures and excellent climbing conditions. The route is very interesting with 3 plus pitches of free climbing from 5.5 to 5.7 as well one pitch of aid climbing that is horrendously steep and exciting. The aptly named "Panic Point" pitch above the Monkey's

Women's Rock Climbing Seminar - Smith Rock State Park

2010-08-17T15:38:00.000-07:00

Join Smith Rock Climbing School and special guest IFMGA guide Olivia Cussen for a 3 day women's specific climbing seminar. Olivia is the third women in the US to gain IFMGA certification and one of only about 50 fully certified guides, male or female, in the US. This program is perfect for women in the sport of rock climbing looking to learn from one of the most talented female guides in the

Scenes from Smith Rock State Park

2010-08-11T11:04:00.000-07:00

Here are some photos from some recent days out at Smith Rock State Park. The primo fall climbing season is just around the corner! We have lots of rock and alpine rock programs.

Mount Rainier Climb, July 2010

2010-08-04T08:47:00.000-07:00

We came, we saw, and .....we carried heavy packs! This year's annual Mt Rainier trip was a blast! Geoff, Joe, Jane, Dan and I had a great 4 days on the mountain. We had excellent conditions, with good freezes and firm snow conditions, the Emmons Glacier Route was is great condition for climbing. Below are some photo highlights of our trip. Here is the team assembled at the trailhead, just

Sunny Days at Smith Rock State Park!

2010-07-27T09:41:00.000-07:00

We've been having some very sunny days out at Smith Rock State Park. This hasn't stopped us from having great climbs as we search out the shade and avoid the crowds around the park. Central Oregon make s a great place to visit and play. Make a weekend out of it! Spend a day with us out climbing, enjoy some tasty food and beverages at the Terrebonne Depot and take in a concert at Les Scwab

Never Ending Skiing- Wow

2010-07-07T12:53:00.001-07:00

Some things in life are still confusing. After a complete drought of a winter in Central Oregon, springtime came with a vegence. Dumping over 15 feet of new snow in late April through mid- June, spring storms pummeled our area almost continuously. While this weather was somewhat frustrating for mountaineering, it extended the ski season tremendously.John R. came up from the heated south and was

Summer on Mt. Hood, finally!

2010-06-30T16:22:00.000-07:00

June 24-27, 2010We finally got a dose of the Oregon summer we have been waiting for. Clear skies and moderate temperatures make for great climbing conditions. Throw in a full moon and you've got a really special climb. These shots are from this past weekend's climbs, both Friday and Sunday mornings. Friday we had some high clouds but Sunday was bluebird clear.The climbers featured are

Juneuary with Timberline Mountain Guides

2010-06-17T16:06:00.000-07:00

January in June? Juneuary!We've been having fun with Juneuary here in the Oregon Cascades the past couple weeks. Mount Hood still looks like a winter wonderland with the upper portions still caked in rime ice. We have had some windows of good climbing and have made the most of the opportunities that we've had.Practicing self-arrest in the soup.One of the unique things about Oregon is that

Scenes from the 2010 Spring Season

2010-06-03T22:17:00.001-07:00

Despite the fact that it has been a wet Spring in the Northwest, it has been a busy guiding season here in Oregon. And contrary to what NOAA has been predicting, we have seen occasional sunshine this Spring. The following post is a series of photos and trip reports from my last three weeks with Timberline Mountain Guides and Smith Rock Climbing School. I have been guiding mostly alpine climbing

Timberline Mountain Guides & Smith Rock Climbing School Guides Training 2010

2010-05-21T13:22:00.000-07:00

"To be a professional guide, one must be committed to their own learning process- as well as their clients-through specialized training and personal experience. It is this dedication to professional training and raising the bar for mountain guiding standards in America that sets us apart from other guide services." - TMG/SRCS websiteWe are just concluding our in-house training here at

Ned and Kyle, Smith Rock, Apr 2010-Large.m4v

2010-04-28T14:34:00.000-07:00

We've been having great weather for climbing at Smith Rock State Park! Check out the video from this weekend.

TMG Staff Sending in Alaska!

2010-04-27T14:37:00.000-07:00

TMG guide Chris Wright recently completed some new climbs in Alaska's remote NW Yentna Glacier area. Read the full trip report on Now!Climbing.com!

Spring Trip to Red Rocks!

2010-03-31T13:18:00.000-07:00

The drive to the Redmond airport was unusual for this winter as there was a nice new blanket of snow covering the ground. What great timing since we were heading to Vegas baby!Red Rocks has a bit of everything for the climber: hard steep sport routes, long multi-pitch walls, and even some bouldering. With limited time I only had one day to climb. Our objective was Eagle Dance IV 5.10c A0. A 5

Spring Has Sprung at Smith Rock State Park

2010-03-22T14:29:00.000-07:00

Matt & Noah dialing in their footwork in the morning sun.This past weekend we had tremendous weather and great climbing conditions out at Smith Rock State Park. Spring has sprung down in the park with green grass, flowers blooming, and tee shirt weather climbing. Matt enjoying the classic climbs on Cinnamon Slab.Early spring is a great time to get out of the gym and dust off those rock skills,

Skiing In the Central Oregon Outback

2010-02-23T19:34:00.000-08:00

The time was finally right for an excursion above treeline into the Central Oregon Cascades. Even office workers need to get out sometimes, and Carlos and I elected to shine our office duties in favor of sunny skies and great snow. We decided our objective to the NE Ridge of Broken Hand, a feature just to the east of our much-beloved Broken Top. Below is Carlos heading out with Broken Top in the

Ouray Ice Climbing Festival

2010-02-02T14:52:00.000-08:00

This year I traveled with the whole family to the Ouray Ice Festival in Ouray, Colorado. Each year a large amount of dedicated ice climbers converge on what is, arguably, one of the most civilized ice climbing venues in the US.Below is my son Calvin(age 8) being lowered down from his first ice route.Each year San Juan Mountain Guides puts on a kids clinic. It was a blast and they did a really

2 Spots Left on Chris's Feb 5-7 Ice Climber's Course in Ouray!!!

2010-01-22T12:12:00.000-08:00

Thinking about coming out to Ouray? Get out here!I've still got two more spots left on my 3-Day Ice Climbers' Course Feb 5-7th! I'll be instructing the course for International Mountain Guides out of Seattle, one of the world's most successful expedition and alpine guide services, and it's a bargain at $600 for three full days of climbing and instruction in the Ouray Ice Park and surrounding

Ecuador Trip--Success!

2009-12-29T12:27:00.000-08:00

Climbers Jennifer and Marty and TMG Guide Joe Owens have returned from Ecuador and climbed quite a few peaks including the mighty Cotopaxi (19,347)! Congratulations Marty for succeeding on such a big climb!To follow Joe's detailed blog about the trip, click on the link below:Joe's BlogTMG offers custom tailored climbing experiences in Ecuador. We believe in a slower acclimitization buildup and

What, Ice Climbing in Oregon?

2009-12-10T13:27:00.001-08:00

For a very limited time each year, we get an arctic air mass in Oregon. During this short window of time, the ice climbers here (including me) go completely nuts. To get this ice, you have to drop what your doing and jump on it. Thomas and I made the voyage from Bend up to the Columbia Gorge to have a look at this monster. The climb, named Ainsworth Left, is an area classic and one of the more

Turns Out: Ski Season is Here Already

2009-11-19T11:51:00.000-08:00

As it turns out, ski season is, in fact, here in Oregon. I had my suspicions based on last week's excursions, and in our seemingly endless quest to become better snow scientists, myself, Pete and Gabe made time on yesterday's tour to make some turns and both the turns and the tests confirm: Yup - It's time for skiing. 1.5m+ snowpacks, 40-50cms of fluffy new powder on N and E aspects, little by

Winter is here in Central Oregon

2009-11-14T10:45:00.000-08:00

Wooo Hooo! We are finally skiing around Mt Bachelor this week. Although the mountain isn't open yet, there is some nice skiing on the hill that is giving us a chance to dust off the skis and enjoy some dry light powder. In a few weeks, if this keeps up, the backcountry should be shaping up nicely.

Thanks to the Whole TMG Family!

2009-10-19T17:40:00.000-07:00

I just wanted to check in and say a big thanks to Pete and everyone at TMG, everyone I've worked with over the last few years, including all of the folks I've had the pleasure of climbing with out at Smith this season and seasons past for helping me along and getting me ready for this AMGA Rock Exam! I'm super-stoked to get my Rock Guide Certification and I couldn't have done it without all of

Ready for Winter?!

2009-10-08T14:45:00.000-07:00

Here's a short video of Calvin dusting off the skis for the upcoming winter season. This is in Bend during our first snowfall on Oct. 4, 2009. Get ready for the snow!

Pretty Cool Climbs, Pretty Cool Blog!

2009-09-13T17:25:00.000-07:00

Just wanted to plug in quickly that I've got my new personal blog up and running! Check it out for news from TMG climbs and everything else I get up to. Check it out at http://christopherwright.wordpress.com!

Alpine Rock Climbing in the Central and Northern Cascades

2009-08-22T09:41:00.000-07:00

Stephen Perry, a long time TMG climber from Minnesota, came out to the Washington Cascades again this August. This time however, for the first time in years, the weather didn't pan out very well for climbing on the west side of the range. With showers and snow predicted down to 7000 feet, we headed south and east to sample some climbing in the Stuart Range of the Central Cascades. We chose the

Mt. Rainier 2009!

2009-08-17T12:11:00.000-07:00

2009 saw TMG's 2nd successful Mt. Rainier trip! The past two seasons we have applied for and been granted one permit each year for a Mt. Rainier trip.We had another great climb on the Emmons Glacier this year lead by Mr. Nick Pope. If you have ever wanted to climb this jewel of the North West it's not to early to start thinking about next year!Check out some of his photos from the trip.2009

Smith Rock Family Tyro Day

2009-07-29T13:32:00.000-07:00

Summer is in full swing here in Central Oregon and what better way to beat the heat than catching some air on the Monkey Face Tyrolean Traverse!Smith Rock is of course a mecca for climbers from all over the world and one of the most renowned features in the park is the famed Monkey Face. A free standing 350 foot tall volcanic plug when looked at from the right angle resembles that of a monkey's

Summertime at Smitty's Place

2009-07-23T19:43:00.000-07:00

Yes, its pretty warm in Central Oregon these days, but with an early start, you can get some great climbing in. Amy M., from the Gunks came out for a couple of days of climbing at Smith Rock. She found the pebbles and nubbins to be quite a bit different that back home, but she really enjoyed it. Here she is the first pitch of Sky Ridge (5.8), an "old school" classic.Below is a video of Amy on the

Late season ascent of Wy'east (Mt Hood)

2009-07-17T21:36:00.000-07:00

On July 11, 2009 I had the opportunity to complete a late-season ascent of Mt Hood with the Rosell family from Bellevue, Washington and Cozette from Fort Collins, Colorado. Working with guide Jon Bates, we reached the summit by 6:30 AM after a 1:30 AM alpine start. Even though it was late in the season, we had some unexpected great climbing conditions on the headwall due to a combination of wind

2009-06-23T11:27:00.001-07:00

Smith Rock Climbing School: Intro to Rock Course I had the good fortune to teach an Intro to Rock Course last week at Smith Rock State Park. Bob, Scott, Craig and James joined me for two days to learn the nuts and bolts of climbing. James is from the UK and had no previous rock climbing experience and the three gentlemen from western Oregon had a long list of successful mountaineering

Mt. Hood Ski Mountainering 2009!

2009-06-19T11:29:00.000-07:00

With great late season snow coverage we’ve had a couple complete ski circumnavigations of Mt. Hood go down! Some of the TMG guides took a lap a while back and since then we’ve had a client complete the circle with Mr. Nick Pope. We’ve also had some other ski mountaineering trips on Hood this season; one of those trips even tagged the summit twice in one day! This undertaking requires excellent

South Sister Trip

2009-06-19T10:24:00.000-07:00

With the Cascades Lake Highway freshly open plans were laid in the office for a splitboard trip on South Sister. With over 4000 feet of Cascade corn skiing South Sister is a annual ritual for Bend snowsliders. Here's some pics from the Office Ninja's splitboard trip in early June where we encountered warm temps, rain, hail, and thunderstorms. All in a all a great day in the mountains!

2009 Guides' Training on the Palmer Snowfield

2009-05-19T12:26:00.000-07:00

On Thursday May 14, we had our second day of 2009 Guides’ training up on the Palmer Snowfield of Mt. Hood. Going into it, we all had "wishes" for nice powder skiing and sunny weather but instead the mountain gods served us up a full-course of “anti-wish” pie- high winds, low visibility, and ice.But it was a fun and exciting day anyway- and we all got to bust-out our shell gear and goggles! For a

An early-season ascent of Mt. Hood

2009-05-06T15:00:00.000-07:00

On April 26, I had the opportunity to climb Mt Hood with Judge Wilson, who flew out from Kentucky. Judge had alot of climbing experience, having climbed Kilimanjaro, the Grand Teton, Mt. Rainier, Mt Washington, and 11 of the 14'ers in Colorado. He had always wanted to climb Mt Hood and arrived at the lodge in great shape with an infectious and enthusiastic attitude.We had stormy weather with no

Classic Oregon Alpine! 9 O'Clock Couloir on Broken Top

2009-04-28T17:30:00.000-07:00

John and I set out bright and early this last Monday on the snowmobile to take advantage of good, cold, climbing conditions on this Oregon Classic. Great hiking lead us speedily to the base where we found the climb in great condition, under sunny skies!John was a stout climber and we made great time reaching the summit just as the clouds of an incoming storm moved in on us....but never fear, we

Haute Route- Skiing from Chamonix to Zermatt

2009-04-23T20:14:00.000-07:00

In early April, I had the privilege of tail guiding for two friends in Europe: Olivia Cussen and John Race, owners and guides for the Northwest Mountain School (mountainschool.com) . From April 7 -12 we skied through the Western Alps from Chamonix, France to Zermatt, Switzerland on a 6 day, 5 night hut tour. Our group consisted of Ken, Shelae, Jess and Jeremy as intrepid adventurers with John and

Chris & Joey: 2, Mt. Huntington: Also 2 (Summits: 0). Alaska: Heck Yeah.

2009-04-16T13:51:00.000-07:00

Talkeetna, AK: After two weeks on the mighty East Fork of the Tokositna Glacier, my longtime partner in crime Joey McBrayer (formerly of Bend, currently of Talkeetna) and I are eating bagels, drying gear out at the Alaska Mountaineering School headquarters, and trying to fatten ourselves back up. Two weeks in the shadow of Mt. Huntington behind us, my toes are thawing out and I'm beginning to

First Mt. Hood Summit for TMG's 2009 Season! by Jon Bates

2009-04-13T10:41:00.000-07:00

I was fortunate enough to have the company of young Rhys Dubin on my first Mt Hood climb of the year. We had excellent conditions for our summit attempt consisting of perfect neve crust all the way to the base of Crater Rock. After assessing the snow conditions and the weather we decided to spice things up a touch and have a go at the Devil's Kitchen Headwall. We found great moderate ice climbing

Oh My God Its Monday Ski Tours!- March 9

2009-03-14T12:58:00.000-07:00

In keeping with our tradition of OMGIM Ski Tours, this one was a doozy! Myself and Rodney as well as 8 folks from the local mountaineering club the Cascades Mountaineers (www.cascadesmountaineers.org) got out on a cold and frosty monday morning. Skipping work in the winter can have huge payoffs, payoffs that don't calculate well in terms of dollars and cents, but calculate well in terms of fun

A Successful Orizaba Expedition in '09 !

2009-02-20T13:22:00.000-08:00

Last month I was lucky enough to accompany Joe and three strong climbers, Dan, Dean and John on Timberline Mountain Guides' annual trip to Mexico to climb El Pico De Orizaba, and we had a truly memorable expedition.We were dealt some adverse weather, and not everyone on the team made it to the summit, but we had a great trip nonetheless.We met some fantastic people, ate some delicious food, and

Ames Ice Hose & a Blizzard? Sure.

2009-02-10T16:15:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was a great day in Telluride if you like ice and snow, or more like snowy ice, and come to think of it, snowy everything (snowy rock, snowy gloves, snowy jackets, snowy pants, snowy boots, snowy faces, snowy ropes - just snowiness in general, if that's a word, which I'm pretty sure it isn't).My good buddy John and I decided to head over from Ouray to climb the mega-classic Ames Ice Hose

Colorado Climbing & Skiing: Still Pretty Alright

2009-02-08T16:15:00.001-08:00

Well I figured after I mentioned coming to Ouray for the climbing in a post about going to Crested Butte for the skiing, I should maybe post a few climbing shots.A few days ago I went out with my friend Libby, and we had a good ol' fashioned multi-sport day. We started out by heading up to Red Mountain Pass, which sits south of Ouray and east of Telluride, and taking advantage of some really nice

TMG Guides Unite and Shred Pow (Go Skiing)!

2009-02-02T20:59:00.000-08:00

Much as I love living and climbing in the Northwest, this winter I thought I'd head to Colorado in search of the one climbing medium we don't really have in Oregon - ice. I decided I'd spent the season in the US's ice climbing Mecca, Ouray Colorado. Well Ouray happens to be pretty close to another of the country's winter hotspots, the backcountry ski paradise of Crested Butte, home most of the

2009-01-08T09:17:00.000-08:00

Success in Ecuador!From December 1 through Dec 15th climbers John, Jennifer, and Heather along with TMG guide Joe Owens and Ecuadorian guide Edgar Vaca spent two weeks climbing a series of peaks in Ecuador. The team started with Pasachoa (13,776’), and then climbed Guagua Pinchincha (15,700’) and Imbabura (15,190’) as preparation for the first glaciated peak Cayambe (18,993’).At 10pm on December

2008-08-19T13:53:00.000-07:00

Last week Stephen Perry came out west, yet again, for some North Cascades climbing. We chose the Fisher Chimneys on Mt Shuksan. This is a true alpine climb with some great snow climbing and glacier travel as well as rock climbing to gain the summit. Above, Stephen on the approach, with hulking mass of Shuksan above him, just before we saw a bear!Below, Stephen on the Upper Curtis Glacier at

Mount Rainier, Emmons Glacier 7/28-31/08

2008-08-05T18:11:00.000-07:00

It was wet. It was gloomy. It was the end of a month-long rainless high pressure system and it was the beginning of our four day trip up Mount Rainier. The forecasters were using terms like "unseasonably strong front" to describe what was heading our way. Rangers would laugh when we asked about a weather report. I half jokingly suggested everyone pack a paperback for the long tent sitting

Illuimination Rock, South Chamber 5.4, 7/16/08

2008-08-03T11:44:00.000-07:00

Here's an idea; Ride a chairlift, hike thirty minutes and be at the base of an alpine rock climb all without dealing with passports, customs or that fussy Euro exchange rate. Right here on Mount Hood the sub-pinnacle Illumination Rock offers up some close to home alpine pleasures worthy in their own right as well as being perfect training ground for advanced climbs further afield.Pete took Sarah

North Sister- Early Morning Couloir, June 17, 2008

2008-06-19T15:24:00.000-07:00

Stephen Perry from Minnesota came out to Oregon finally, after a few months of changeable weather. Our original goal was to climb the West Rib of Mt Jefferson, but after discussing the trail conditions and trailhead access, we changed objectives to the Early Morning Couloir on North Sister. Stephen Perry was pleasantly surprised with many pitches of steep snow climbing, and an incredible

"Pucker Up" and the "3 O'Clock Face" Broken Top Bowl

2008-03-14T10:50:00.000-07:00

On March 12, Bill, Jon, Pete and Bob, headed out to the Broken Top Bowl to look for some steep spring corn skiing. The only problem was some bad weather was coming in, and it never really warmed up. So, we had a great workout, skied some steep firm stuff, and generally had a darn good time anyway. Springtime is a wild time for weather in Central Oregon.! Approaching the bowl with "Pucker Up" on

Its T- Shirt Weather at Smith Rock!

2008-03-06T13:43:00.000-08:00

On Tuesday, March 4th, Pete, Woody (TMG's Physician Advisor) and Pete's son Finn headed out to Smith Rock to enjoy the sunshine on a warm spring day. It was unbelievable warmth, and even got close to being too hot at one point during the heat of the day. Smith Rock is in full swing at this point with no crowds, and fantastic weather.Finn (age 4) pulling down on stone.

Reid Headwall- Mt Hood

2008-02-19T14:41:00.001-08:00

President's Day brought us some of the most fantastic weather of the season. Bobby, from Eugene, and Mihai, from Olympia took full advantage of the clear spell and climbed the Reid Headwall with Pete on Mt Hood. We found some deeper than anticipated snow on the lower headwall, but up higher it firmed up and we had some nice climbing. Our 2008 climbing season is officially on!Near the Summit of Mt

9 O'Clock Couloir, Broken Top

2008-02-17T14:33:00.000-08:00

Tara, Jeff and Pete headed in to Broken Top again to climb 9 O'clock Couloir and do some skiing. We had a great day and fine weather. We wanted to focus on a bit of ropework to get ready for our Haute Route ski tour next month, so we did a bit of climbing and a bit of skiing too. Is spring already here?

Tam McArthur Rim Ski Touring

2008-01-28T20:15:00.001-08:00

Taking advantage of the last day of a long standing high pressure system, Pete, Mike and Nick ventured into Tam McArthur Rim for some backcountry skiing. Lying just southeast of the Three Sisters and northwest of Bend, Tam McArthur Rim boasts lots of varied ski terrain above treeline with spectacular views of the Sisters to the west and the desert to the east. Great day to be out in the high

El Pico De Orizaba Expedition Successful

2008-01-28T07:00:00.000-08:00

Heather with Orizaba behind. John on the Summit of Orizaba. Rob in the classic Dodge.TMG's El Pico de Orizaba expedition was a complete success this year! Congrats go out to team members Heather from Oregon, Rob from New York and John from Arizona all successfully climbed to the summit on January 21st with guide Joe Owens. Here is Joe's latest dispatch from Mexico City just after the trip:Hey

Strawberry Ice Climbing

2008-01-22T14:47:00.000-08:00

Last Saturday Mike and Pete made use of the cold weather we are having to go ice climbing in the Strawberry Range. This is a little know area, but is very consistent with ice forming conditions all winter. We were very happy to find some fat ice conditions, and plenty of good approaching to do, just to make sure we are in decent shape. Here is Mike leading the "Honeypot".

Broken Top Bowl Ski Tour

2008-01-20T14:35:00.000-08:00

Looking for stable snow, and getting in shape for our Haute Route ski tour this spring, Jeff and TMG guide Pete Keane headed out to ski some cool looking lines in the bowl of Broken Top. We found some excellent spring-like conditions, in an otherwise mostly unstable snowpack last week. There are some great ski runs out that way, so if you are interested in getting some great turns in a wild

2008-01-15T14:51:00.000-08:00

In December, Pete Keane took the AMGA Ski Guides Course in Jackson, Wyoming. It was a great time, and everyone learned alot. We managed some great turns, as well as a 4 day crossing of the Tetons from east to west.

Mt Shuksan, Fisher Chimney's Route

2007-08-25T15:28:00.000-07:00

Nizzy and I embarked on a little exam training and climbed the Fisher Chimneys in less than ideal visibility. It was an improbable looking line at the beginning, but the route unfolded bit by bit. We climbed the SE Ridge of the Summit, which was really nice, solid, rock.Nice weather for rockclimbing huh? View from our bivy at the base of Hell's Highway. The hulking mass of Mt Shuksan.

SW Buttress of Cutthroat Peak, Washington Pass

2007-08-09T15:11:00.000-07:00

After climbing 2 years ago together in Oregon, Hans and guide Pete Keane hooked up for a climb on the awesome granite of Washington Pass, on the east side of the Washington Cascades. They chose the SW Buttress of Cutthroat Peak. This climb has some classic alpine rock climbing up to about 5.8 in difficulty. One advantage of this area is its relatively dry climate compared to other areas in the

North Ridge of Forbidden Peak

2007-07-29T14:49:00.000-07:00

Stephen Perry, from Minnesota, and guide Pete Keane had an excellent 4 day trip to climb the awesome North Ridge of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades National Park. This climb encompassed all the classic elements of mountaineering including glacier travel, steep snow, and 5th class rock climbing. Here is Stephen topping out on the 600 foot ice face leading to the North Ridge. Behind him is

Welcome

2007-07-15T11:03:00.000-07:00

Welcome to TMG's Guide's Blog. We hope to have some interesting posts about some of the climbing we are doing.