Last week Stephen Perry came out west, yet again, for some North Cascades climbing. We chose the Fisher Chimneys on Mt Shuksan. This is a true alpine climb with some great snow climbing and glacier travel as well as rock climbing to gain the summit. Above, Stephen on the approach, with hulking mass of Shuksan above him, just before we saw a bear!

Below, Stephen on the Upper Curtis Glacier at sunrise.

Stephen rock climbing on the SE Ridge of the summit period.

Below, Pete and Stephen on the top with Mt Baker in the background.

It was a great trip! Look for more North Cascades trips from TMG in 2009!

Mount Rainier, Emmons Glacier 7/28-31/08

It was wet. It was gloomy. It was the end of a month-long rainless high pressure system and it was the beginning of our four day trip up Mount Rainier. The forecasters were using terms like "unseasonably strong front" to describe what was heading our way. Rangers would laugh when we asked about a weather report. I half jokingly suggested everyone pack a paperback for the long tent sitting session that was about to ensue. Sure enough, the most recent Economist was safely Ziplocked deep in my pack.

Undeterred, Monday we headed in from Whitewater Campground at 4400'. The sun greeted us that first day as we hiked along the flood damaged White River trail. We broke out of the trees at Glacier Basin and found the wild flowers in full effect on the meadows and moraines as we made our way into the alpine.










Roping up, we ascended the small Inter Glacier and climbed to 8600' where a small, flat, protected hollow was chosen to be our first camp. The clouds slowly moved in that evening, but we didn't see any precip or wind to speak of. Our plan was to spend a night here then a night at 9800' before our summit attempt. This plan is nice in that it is unhurried and gives plenty of acclimatization.









Tuesday dawned with some clouds, but they only lended a nice alpine atmosphere. It was our short, restful day. We only had to pack up camp and ascend 12oo' to Emmons Flats. In no time we were passing a busy Camp Shurman at 9640' and checking in with the climbing rangers. A few more minutes and we were alone again at 9800' on the Emmons Glacier. It was a bit of work to dig our tent platforms on the glacier, but worth it for some solitude on what can be a busy mountain.


No sooner had we gotten our tents pitched and securely guyed that the winds picked up. We had a lovely mix of snow, rain and freezing rain. Snug in our tents we had some hot drinks and dinner. From the forecast it sounded like this could be our weather for the next 24 hours. We could only hope that maybe we would have a weather window Thursday morning that would let us go from camp to summit to car in one epic push.



I woke at midnight to check conditions. The tent shook loudly as gusty winds came down the mountain. Outside I was surprised to find a starry sky with clouds only below in the valley. But the wind was very cold, and it wouldn't be light for hours. Rather than force into the arctic air, we slept a few more hours to let the warming sun catch up with us. Soon after leaving camp our headlamps were off and we had a little sun to warm our minds if not our fingers.


Forty-six hundred feet and many crevasses later we were all on top of Rainier. We had climbed the largest glacier in the lower 48! More importantly, we had a safe and smooth descent back to camp. We enjoyed a hot meal and great night's sleep then hiked out the next day as the clouds began to build on the summit again.

Great job Kim, Lili and Tom!!!!

Illuimination Rock, South Chamber 5.4, 7/16/08

Here's an idea; Ride a chairlift, hike thirty minutes and be at the base of an alpine rock climb all without dealing with passports, customs or that fussy Euro exchange rate. Right here on Mount Hood the sub-pinnacle Illumination Rock offers up some close to home alpine pleasures worthy in their own right as well as being perfect training ground for advanced climbs further afield.

Pete took Sarah and Kim up the standard South Chamber Route that involves easy fifth class climbing and fun scrambling. The setting is very alpine with the backdrop of Mount Hood, its glaciers and cliffs close at hand.


Entering the South Chamber on easy ground.












Starting up the second pitch.






















Gaining the summit ridge.












Scrambling along the ridge.












Looking through the "keyhole" onto the Reid Glacier.












Quite the setting!





Oh yeah, did I mention the chairlift?
















More pics over at nickpope.zenfolio.com

North Sister- Early Morning Couloir, June 17, 2008

Stephen Perry from Minnesota came out to Oregon finally, after a few months of changeable weather. Our original goal was to climb the West Rib of Mt Jefferson, but after discussing the trail conditions and trailhead access, we changed objectives to the Early Morning Couloir on North Sister. Stephen Perry was pleasantly surprised with many pitches of steep snow climbing, and an incredible summit.


Stephen hiking in, the route is the couloir slightly to right above him.
Stephen topping out on the summit snowfield.
On the summit of North Sister.

"Pucker Up" and the "3 O'Clock Face" Broken Top Bowl

On March 12, Bill, Jon, Pete and Bob, headed out to the Broken Top Bowl to look for some steep spring corn skiing. The only problem was some bad weather was coming in, and it never really warmed up. So, we had a great workout, skied some steep firm stuff, and generally had a darn good time anyway. Springtime is a wild time for weather in Central Oregon.!

Approaching the bowl with "Pucker Up" on the steep left flank.

Bill schralping the steep, firm, "3 O'Clock Face" on tele gear.

Climbing on our second run up the "3 O'Clock Face" with the weather moving in.

Its T- Shirt Weather at Smith Rock!

On Tuesday, March 4th, Pete, Woody (TMG's Physician Advisor) and Pete's son Finn headed out to Smith Rock to enjoy the sunshine on a warm spring day. It was unbelievable warmth, and even got close to being too hot at one point during the heat of the day. Smith Rock is in full swing at this point with no crowds, and fantastic weather.

Finn (age 4) pulling down on stone.

Reid Headwall- Mt Hood

President's Day brought us some of the most fantastic weather of the season. Bobby, from Eugene, and Mihai, from Olympia took full advantage of the clear spell and climbed the Reid Headwall with Pete on Mt Hood. We found some deeper than anticipated snow on the lower headwall, but up higher it firmed up and we had some nice climbing. Our 2008 climbing season is officially on!

Near the Summit of Mt Hood:

9 O'Clock Couloir, Broken Top

Tara, Jeff and Pete headed in to Broken Top again to climb 9 O'clock Couloir and do some skiing. We had a great day and fine weather. We wanted to focus on a bit of ropework to get ready for our Haute Route ski tour next month, so we did a bit of climbing and a bit of skiing too. Is spring already here?

Tam McArthur Rim Ski Touring

Taking advantage of the last day of a long standing high pressure system, Pete, Mike and Nick ventured into Tam McArthur Rim for some backcountry skiing. Lying just southeast of the Three Sisters and northwest of Bend, Tam McArthur Rim boasts lots of varied ski terrain above treeline with spectacular views of the Sisters to the west and the desert to the east.
Great day to be out in the high country. We sampled only some of the highlights of this area from rolling glades and trees to challenging steeps. If backcountry skiing is something you're interested in exploring get in touch with us, we'd love to show you around.

A view along the Rim from the east.













Cruising along the top of the Rim. Broken Top, South and Middle Sisters behind.












Broken Top looms ominously to the south.













Skis off, Pete ascends Broken Hand (8576').



















Pete carves the wind pack.



















Pete and Mike heading for powder in the trees. Broken Hand is top right.

El Pico De Orizaba Expedition Successful

Heather with Orizaba behind.
John on the Summit of Orizaba.
Rob in the classic Dodge.

TMG's El Pico de Orizaba expedition was a complete success this year! Congrats go out to team members Heather from Oregon, Rob from New York and John from Arizona all successfully climbed to the summit on January 21st with guide Joe Owens. Here is Joe's latest dispatch from Mexico City just after the trip:

Hey Pete, just emailing you from the historic Majestic Hotel in Mexico City to report another successful Orizaba trip. The weather the last five days has been excellent.Some afternoon cloud but always clearing for the morning, some wind but no precipitation. Yesterday all climbers Heather,Rob and John summited. We left high camp (15,200ft) at 2.45am and reached the summit, (18,701) at 9.45am. We climbed under clear skies and a full moon. It was a little windy and folks were happy to have their parkas and balaclavas. We climbed from 17,000ft to the summit in our parkas. Seeing the moon set over Tlachichuca was one of the best sights I have ever seen. Climbing conditions were as good as they get with perfect neve for the ascent. We stayed on the summit for about an hour enjoying the sun, and this allowed the snow to often for the descent. Clouds to the East meant that we could not see the Gulf of Mexico but there is always next year!!! The climbing through the Labyrinth (15,500 - 16200) was excellent and reminded me of Leuthold's couloir. Everyone agreed that it was fun climbing. Then it was back to the tents, a quick pack up and return to the hut for our jeep ride to Tlachichuca. The 12 mile jeep ride in an old restored 1942 dodge was a great way to leave the mountain. Classic transport for a classic mountain! -Joe

Strawberry Ice Climbing

Last Saturday Mike and Pete made use of the cold weather we are having to go ice climbing in the Strawberry Range. This is a little know area, but is very consistent with ice forming conditions all winter. We were very happy to find some fat ice conditions, and plenty of good approaching to do, just to make sure we are in decent shape. Here is Mike leading the "Honeypot".

Broken Top Bowl Ski Tour

Looking for stable snow, and getting in shape for our Haute Route ski tour this spring, Jeff and TMG guide Pete Keane headed out to ski some cool looking lines in the bowl of Broken Top. We found some excellent spring-like conditions, in an otherwise mostly unstable snowpack last week. There are some great ski runs out that way, so if you are interested in getting some great turns in a wild setting, be sure to get in touch with us!

In December, Pete Keane took the AMGA Ski Guides Course in Jackson, Wyoming. It was a great time, and everyone learned alot. We managed some great turns, as well as a 4 day crossing of the Tetons from east to west.