Summer on Mt. Hood, finally!

June 24-27, 2010

We finally got a dose of the Oregon summer we have been waiting for. Clear skies and moderate temperatures make for great climbing conditions. Throw in a full moon and you've got a really special climb.

These shots are from this past weekend's climbs, both Friday and Sunday mornings. Friday we had some high clouds but Sunday was bluebird clear.

The climbers featured are participating in Reach the Summit, a fund raising climb supporting the American Lung Association.


Ascending under a full moon.


On the hogsback looking south to Mt. Jefferson at dawn on Friday.


The ladies of the Lunar-tics!


Shadow of the mountain + full moon = unbelievable!


TMG guide Ben heads up the Old Chute with his group.


Paula, Marty and Jennifer hanging out near the top of the Old Chute.


Barb on the last steps to the summit rim.


A spectacular day to be on the summit. We could even see Mt. Stuart, 150 miles to the north.


Basking in the sunlight at the summit.


Almost to the Hogsback on the descent down the Old Chute.

Juneuary with Timberline Mountain Guides

January in June? Juneuary!

We've been having fun with Juneuary here in the Oregon Cascades the past couple weeks. Mount Hood still looks like a winter wonderland with the upper portions still caked in rime ice. We have had some windows of good climbing and have made the most of the opportunities that we've had.

Practicing self-arrest in the soup.

One of the unique things about Oregon is that we have many different climates within a relatively short drive. That means that sometimes when it's full on conditions on Mount Hood it's shorts and t-shirt weather at Smith Rock.

Shorts and Tees at Smith Rock.

As we approach mid June it's looking as if we've turned a corner and we're hoping for clear sailing from here on out!

Rope team shadow on Mount Hood summit ridge.

Basking in the morning sun on Mount Hood.

Enjoying the summit!

We climb on other mountains too! While Hood was getting pounded with late season snow TMG had great trips in the Three Sisters area. Broken Top offers some steep climbing that rivals some of the "bigger" peaks in the range.

Steep snow climbing on Broken Tops Northwest Face.

Scenes from the 2010 Spring Season

 

Despite the fact that it has been a wet Spring in the Northwest, it has been a busy guiding season here in Oregon. And contrary to what NOAA has been predicting, we have seen occasional sunshine this Spring. The following post is a series of photos and trip reports from my last three weeks with Timberline Mountain Guides and Smith Rock Climbing School. I have been guiding mostly alpine climbing on Mt. Hood, but I did get the opportunity to dust off the skis this Memorial Day weekend for a day of ski touring in White Salmon Canyon on Mt. Hood. 

My first trip of the season was a two day climb on Mt. Hood. It was a chilly and windy morning but as we climbed up the Old Chute and reached the summit ridge, we got to bask in the early morning sunshine. 

Springtime here in Oregon is the prime season for rock climbing at Smith Rock State Park. While Smith gained international attention as a destination for elite sport climbing, it boasts a life-time of single pitch and multi-pitch moderate routes. Here is a shot of Todd climbing on Pack Animal, a lesser traveled 5.8 route.

And the view gets better the higher you get! 

In mid-May the whole TMG staff got together for four days of Guides' Training. One of the advantages of working for an AMGA Accredited Guide Service is the high quality Guides' Training provided each year. This year IFMGA guide Art Mooney came out from New Hampshire to team up with on-staff Certified Guides to provide 4 days of excellent rock training. One of the days was spent fine tuning the Tyrolean Traverse from the Diving Board to the Monkey Face. Here is a shot of Geoff going for it!

A silhouette of Tico crossing from the Diving Board to the mouth of the Monkey.

And I have even gotten some turns in this season. All this late season snow has led to some epic spring skiing conditions.

Nicole and Shane came back to Hood for a First Tracks ski touring program this Memorial Day Weekend. They had never been backcountry skiing before and were interested in learning some new skills on snow. We practiced beacons, learned skinning techniques, talked about route selection and the snowpack and of course got some turns in. It was a fun day in the White Salmon Canyon. 

Springtime in Oregon has something for everyone: alpine climbing in the Oregon Cascades, rock climbing at Smith Rock and even ski touring on Mt. Hood or in the Bend Area. Come visit and see why we believe this is the prime location for a springtime adventure in the mountains! 

John MacKinnon