Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Women's Rock Climbing Seminar - Smith Rock State Park



Join Smith Rock Climbing School and special guest IFMGA guide Olivia Cussen for a 3 day women's specific climbing seminar. Olivia is the third women in the US to gain IFMGA certification and one of only about 50 fully certified guides, male or female, in the US.


This program is perfect for women in the sport of rock climbing looking to learn from one of the most talented female guides in the US as well as a great introduction to the sport for those that want to experience rock climbing for the first time.

Clinic and Instructional Topics to be included:
• Belaying and Rapelling Techniques
• Crack Climbing vs. Face Climbing
• Footwork and Efficient Climbing
• Chimney and Off width Climbing
• Belay Station Management
• Improvised Self-Rescue
• Anchors for Belaying and Top-roping


October at Smith Rock couldn't be a better time for climbing. Pleasant day time temperatures, cool starry nights, low humidity, and lots of sun make Smith a premier fall crag! Smith Rock is known by many around the world as the birth place of sport climbing in the US. This world class climbing venue offers climbs and adventure for any type of climber from perfect basalt hand jams, nubbins, to perfect edging and crimping on welded tuff. There's no wonder why climber's from across the globe make Smith Rock a must on their list of places to climb.

Here's what Olivia has to say regarding women specific climbing programs:

“I have often asked this question myself. My intention in running all women's programs is not to imply that women don't climb or learn well with men. In my experience, long expeditions involving both men and women tend to be more stable and enjoyable. I have seen plenty of all women's expeditions on big mountains like Denali actually degenerate into trips that probably would have benefited from less of the baggage that comes with all female trips. Rock climbing, however, is not expedition climbing and I have noticed over time that most women are introduced to rock climbing (and ice climbing) by men. Once experienced, I find that it does not really matter whether I climb with men or women, but is rather the individual that matters. At the very beginning, however, I think that men and women approach climbing from very different places. Early on, men tend to use their upper bodies more, and often "bulldog" their way up routes. Their strength, simply put, is there physical power. This generally does not work for female climbers, whose strengths generally include balance, thoughtfulness, and flexibility. It is really important that women not try to "climb like a man" as it generally leads to frustration and slows the learning process. My husband John and I climb at very similar grades, but we have found over time that his style and mine are very different. When focusing on developing new skills, it seems that for some women, these trips allow them to progress faster and learn more in the end.”

Offered: October 8 - 10, 2010
Cost: $500 per climber for a group of 2 or more



Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Scenes from Smith Rock State Park

Here are some photos from some recent days out at Smith Rock State Park. The primo fall climbing season is just around the corner! We have lots of rock and alpine rock programs.





















Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Mount Rainier Climb, July 2010

We came, we saw, and .....we carried heavy packs! This year's annual Mt Rainier trip was a blast! Geoff, Joe, Jane, Dan and I had a great 4 days on the mountain. We had excellent conditions, with good freezes and firm snow conditions, the Emmons Glacier Route was is great condition for climbing. Below are some photo highlights of our trip.



Here is the team assembled at the trailhead, just about to put our packs on our back.


On the first day approach, the trail winds through Old Growth Forest and occasionally has great views of the mountain. Mount Rainier in this photo towering!



An evening view of the upper Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. There is a lot of ice on this mountain.


Here are Jane and Dan on the lower part of the Emmons, on the way up to Camp Schurman.



High Camp at Emmons Flats. This elevation at about 9700 feet. We spent 2 nights on the glacier at this spot.



Here is Jane nearing the top of the "Corridor" on the Emmons Glacier at sunrise. This section allows a fairly reasonable passage up the glacier, with steeper icefalls on either side.



The penitente farm near the summit. Skiing anyone? I don't think so! These weird snow formations were difficult to walk through, and in some cases they were a couple of feet high. Luckily, we didn't have to travel through much of this type of terrain.



Jane and Dan on the summit at about 9am on July 29, 2010. It was cold and windy so we were only there for a few short minutes. We did see a Horizon Air plane fly by us on the same level on its approach or departure from Seattle. What a treat!


All in all, we gave the mountain all we had, and had a great time doing it. Thanks everyone for a great trip!