Thursday, November 19, 2009

Turns Out: Ski Season is Here Already

As it turns out, ski season is, in fact, here in Oregon.

I had my suspicions based on last week's excursions, and in our seemingly endless quest to become better snow scientists, myself, Pete and Gabe made time on yesterday's tour to make some turns and both the turns and the tests confirm: Yup - It's time for skiing. 1.5m+ snowpacks, 40-50cms of fluffy new powder on N and E aspects, little by way of reactive slab activity* and plenty of creamy untracked pow, as I believe they call it in the 'Rado - sounds like ski season to me. Our photographic haul was pretty weak owing to the fact that the only cameras we had with us were iPhones, but even a cell phone camera can tell you that those are powder turns. Viva Noviembre!



*For more pics and test scores check out Now! Climbing here.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Winter is here in Central Oregon

Wooo Hooo! We are finally skiing around Mt Bachelor this week. Although the mountain isn't open yet, there is some nice skiing on the hill that is giving us a chance to dust off the skis and enjoy some dry light powder. In a few weeks, if this keeps up, the backcountry should be shaping up nicely.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Thanks to the Whole TMG Family!


I just wanted to check in and say a big thanks to Pete and everyone at TMG, everyone I've worked with over the last few years, including all of the folks I've had the pleasure of climbing with out at Smith this season and seasons past for helping me along and getting me ready for this AMGA Rock Exam! I'm super-stoked to get my Rock Guide Certification and I couldn't have done it without all of your love and support. Thanks again and I'll look forward to seeing you all out there soon, wherever there is!

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Ready for Winter?!

Here's a short video of Calvin dusting off the skis for the upcoming winter season. This is in Bend during our first snowfall on Oct. 4, 2009. Get ready for the snow!

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Alpine Rock Climbing in the Central and Northern Cascades

Stephen Perry, a long time TMG climber from Minnesota, came out to the Washington Cascades again this August. This time however, for the first time in years, the weather didn't pan out very well for climbing on the west side of the range. With showers and snow predicted down to 7000 feet, we headed south and east to sample some climbing in the Stuart Range of the Central Cascades. We chose the East Ridge of Ingalls Peak as out first objective. Below is Stephen hiking in with Mt Stuart behind him in cloud cover.


During the evening we got some rain, but in the morning it was just cloudy. Below is the East Ridge of Ingalls Peak rising from right to left from the obvious low notch.

Ascending the gully towards the notch, we made steady progress. We broke out the rope a few times.

Once on the ridge, the clouds moved in, which lent a "mysterious" alpine air to the climb.


On the descent back to Ingalls Lake, we were greated by a furry friend. He seemed curious, but never ventured too close to us.


After Ingalls, we made tracks for Winthrop, Washington. Another dry, east side town. We settled on the Northeast Ridge of Black Peak in a long, one day push. Here is Stephen below on the approach after a few new inches of snow had fallen the night before. Is this really summer alpine climbing?

The route starts with a fairly low angle snow patch, and then joins up to long, rock ridge.


The views were exposed, and the austere weather and fresh snow kept the climb feeling serious.
We were happy to be topping out around mid-day after an early morning start.

Here is Stephen on the summit.


On the way out, we had good views to the east and were satisfied with our day. Twelve hours and four minutes after leaving the car, we returned to Root Beer and chips. A great day!

Monday, August 17, 2009

Mt. Rainier 2009!


2009 saw TMG's 2nd successful Mt. Rainier trip! The past two seasons we have applied for and been granted one permit each year for a Mt. Rainier trip.
We had another great climb on the Emmons Glacier this year lead by Mr. Nick Pope. If you have ever wanted to climb this jewel of the North West it's not to early to start thinking about next year!

Check out some of his photos from the trip.

2009 Rainier Photos