Thanks to the Whole TMG Family!

I just wanted to check in and say a big thanks to Pete and everyone at TMG, everyone I've worked with over the last few years, including all of the folks I've had the pleasure of climbing with out at Smith this season and seasons past for helping me along and getting me ready for this AMGA Rock Exam! I'm super-stoked to get my Rock Guide Certification and I couldn't have done it without all of your love and support. Thanks again and I'll look forward to seeing you all out there soon, wherever there is!

Ready for Winter?!

Here's a short video of Calvin dusting off the skis for the upcoming winter season. This is in Bend during our first snowfall on Oct. 4, 2009. Get ready for the snow!

Pretty Cool Climbs, Pretty Cool Blog!

Just wanted to plug in quickly that I've got my new personal blog up and running! Check it out for news from TMG climbs and everything else I get up to. Check it out at http://christopherwright.wordpress.com!

Alpine Rock Climbing in the Central and Northern Cascades

Stephen Perry, a long time TMG climber from Minnesota, came out to the Washington Cascades again this August. This time however, for the first time in years, the weather didn't pan out very well for climbing on the west side of the range. With showers and snow predicted down to 7000 feet, we headed south and east to sample some climbing in the Stuart Range of the Central Cascades. We chose the East Ridge of Ingalls Peak as out first objective. Below is Stephen hiking in with Mt Stuart behind him in cloud cover.


During the evening we got some rain, but in the morning it was just cloudy. Below is the East Ridge of Ingalls Peak rising from right to left from the obvious low notch.

Ascending the gully towards the notch, we made steady progress. We broke out the rope a few times.

Once on the ridge, the clouds moved in, which lent a "mysterious" alpine air to the climb.


On the descent back to Ingalls Lake, we were greated by a furry friend. He seemed curious, but never ventured too close to us.


After Ingalls, we made tracks for Winthrop, Washington. Another dry, east side town. We settled on the Northeast Ridge of Black Peak in a long, one day push. Here is Stephen below on the approach after a few new inches of snow had fallen the night before. Is this really summer alpine climbing?

The route starts with a fairly low angle snow patch, and then joins up to long, rock ridge.


The views were exposed, and the austere weather and fresh snow kept the climb feeling serious.
We were happy to be topping out around mid-day after an early morning start.

Here is Stephen on the summit.


On the way out, we had good views to the east and were satisfied with our day. Twelve hours and four minutes after leaving the car, we returned to Root Beer and chips. A great day!

Mt. Rainier 2009!

2009 saw TMG's 2nd successful Mt. Rainier trip! The past two seasons we have applied for and been granted one permit each year for a Mt. Rainier trip.
We had another great climb on the Emmons Glacier this year lead by Mr. Nick Pope. If you have ever wanted to climb this jewel of the North West it's not to early to start thinking about next year!

Check out some of his photos from the trip.

2009 Rainier Photos

Smith Rock Family Tyro Day

Summer is in full swing here in Central Oregon and what better way to beat the heat than catching some air on the Monkey Face Tyrolean Traverse!
Smith Rock is of course a mecca for climbers from all over the world and one of the most renowned features in the park is the famed Monkey Face. A free standing 350 foot tall volcanic plug when looked at from the right angle resembles that of a monkey's face.

We recently had the Burt family join us all the way from the great state of Texas. They say everything is bigger in Texas but they had to come all the way to Oregon to see how big we do rock climbing!
A Tyrolean traverse is when a climber pulls themselves across a span from one structure to another. Smith Rock Climbing School's tyro day is a bit of a climbing circuit. We start with a Tyrolean traverse from a feature called the Diving Board and travel across the void into the mouth of the Monkey. Once successfully into the cave the climber has a short rock climb out of the mouth and up to the Nose Boulder. This climb is known as Panic Point, a short 5.7 climb with some classic exposure!

Now that you're up and on the Monkey it's time to get down with a 250 foot free hanging rappel with great views all the way east to Mt. Jefferson!
Thanks to the Burt family for the photos and a great day out at Smith Rock State Park!

Please follow the link below if you are interested in setting up a day for your group or family to do the Monkey Face Tyrolean Traverse.
Smith Rock Climbing School Tyrolean Traverse

Summertime at Smitty's Place

Yes, its pretty warm in Central Oregon these days, but with an early start, you can get some great climbing in. Amy M., from the Gunks came out for a couple of days of climbing at Smith Rock. She found the pebbles and nubbins to be quite a bit different that back home, but she really enjoyed it. Here she is the first pitch of Sky Ridge (5.8), an "old school" classic.


Below is a video of Amy on the third pitch hand traverse on Sky Ridge. You can beat the views here.



Next, we climbed Wherever I May Roam, a 5 pitch 5.9 sport route on the west side of the Smith Rock Group. Check out that xenolith to her left on this first pitch!

On pitch 3, there is some delicate face traverses. This is some really fun climbing here.

On pitch 4, there is definate exposure as you tip-toe up the arete.

Here is Amy topping out after some great climbing.