An early-season ascent of Mt. Hood

On April 26, I had the opportunity to climb Mt Hood with Judge Wilson, who flew out from Kentucky. Judge had alot of climbing experience, having climbed Kilimanjaro, the Grand Teton, Mt. Rainier, Mt Washington, and 11 of the 14'ers in Colorado. He had always wanted to climb Mt Hood and arrived at the lodge in great shape with an infectious and enthusiastic attitude.

We had stormy weather with no visibility during our snow school and the forecast for our climb day was 45 ph winds but we decided to go for it anyway.

We began our climb in clouds and wind but by 4Am and were able to climb above the storm and found clear skies, excellent snow, and most importantly, no wind!

There were few other parties on the mountain this weekend, with two other TMG trips ascending the mountain, guided by Joe Owens (photo below) and Geoff Lodge.

With firm, styrofoam-like snow, we moved efficiently through the moonless night and into the clear, blue and pink-colored sunrise. A thick marine layer of clouds (the source of the wind and sleet below) drifted across below us, obscuring the land underneath. Above us, the summit towers were encased in a thick layer of white rime ice.

We ascended to the Hogsback and then traversed west to the "Old Chute". With a little water-ice in the exit gulley to spice things up, we reached the summit at 9:30 AM, with 28 degrees, sun, and only a faint breath of wind. Joe and company were already laying out on the summit, soaking in the sunny skies. It was a memorable summit day!

Here's a video of the climb.